26/8/23
It's one of Northern Rail's best kept secrets that the Sundays-only 1017 Sheffield - Carlisle is the "The Don-Eden Express"1 going straight through on the scenic Settle-Carlisle line (other times you have to change at Leeds.) It returns as the Eden-Trent express, going through to Nottingham.
The “Don-Eden” Express at Settle
I got on the 4-car train at Sheffield - Settle and stored my bike in the cupboard-like bike space. On the bank holiday Sunday it was not very busy - I guess most people had already got to where they wanted to go for that weekend.
The normal things happened on the journey - someone dressed as spicy mustard got on at Meadowhall and some jolly ladies got on at Barnsley. I found myself reminiscing about having to go to a court case in Otley back in the 1980’s (representing the company I worked for at the time) and how slow was the train then.
Slipping into Wakefield at Addingford, the Huddersfield train hustled past and sleek expresses glide overhead on the main line. We negotiated the Aire & Calder rainforest and threading through the trackwork at Leeds. As soon as the train reverses out of Leeds the journey take on a different feel as we leave the main line and heading North by Northwest. The Airedale line has a grandiose feel as we leave the Rust Belt, and the countryside widens out.
The Leeds - Liverpool canal joins us as we head further up the Aire. The locks carry the boats higher and higher until they float off into the clouds, while the train growls it's way steadily up the incline, preparing for the Long Drag
A steam train puffs out of Keighley as we roll in, and a group of people wait expectantly at Cononley as we scurry past. A few folks join us at Skipton there were heavy skies but no rain in the Dales as we made our way to Settle, and I was looking forward to a challenging but satisfying ride. A catering trolley run by the Friends of the Settle-Carlisle was being loaded as I left the train - before that though, there’s no cagtering ao it;s to bring something with you. Sadly though, the heavy drizzle arrived as I left the station and I pedalled damply on the back road (NCN68) through Giggleswick and up to Stainforth.
Crossing the river at Stainforth
I stopped for lunch at the lovely village green…
and then headed up the hill towards Malham. This is perhaps one of the easiest climbs heading east from the Ribble Valley, that the railway line follows up to Ribblehead, of course: The climb from Settle is incredible steep, while Langstrothdale Chase, whilst a fairly gentle climb from Horton, is mostly dirt track.
Just when you might have started a feeling of self-satisfaction, however, you have to turn right to take a steep drop across Fornah Gill followed by a 20% climb. Once you’ve done that, the views are tremendous and your troubles are more or less over.
Rolling over the fells, Malham Tarn comes into view and then, crossing the limestone pavements…
, you drop down to Malham itself with its various scenic delights, Malham Cove being the best well-known. I enjoyed a break and then followed by bike route (shared with day-trippers in cars) passing a notable Organic Veg stall in Kirkby Malham…
…to Airton and on through the beautiful countryside to Gargrave, where I picked up the Leeds-Liverpool canal towpath, which was resurfaced to a good standard not long ago, and avoided the busy A65. Having had a good following wind I made better time than expected and arrived in Skipton an hour early for the Eden-Trent, so caught one of the fast electric trains to Leeds instead and continued back to Sheffield. I noted however from the online timetable that the through train completed its journey back on time.
So if you’re looking for something to do on a Sunday, why not try the Don-Eden express? It will drop you off in Settle around mid-day and pick you up at 5, so you get about five hours to enjoy the Dales, either with a bike ride or a walk.
The Thames–Clyde Express was a named express passenger train operating on the Midland Main Line, Settle-Carlisle Railway and the Glasgow South Western Line between London St Pancras and Glasgow St Enoch.[1] Following the closure of St Enoch station in 1966, the service ran to Glasgow Central instead. - Wikipedia
Just in is the news that from June, this train will stop at all the stations on the Settle-Carlisle line, opening up many opportunities for walking and cycling days out from Sheffield and Barnsley.